The 10 best places to eat in Trastevere
Here's your guide to getting your fill of Rome in the Eternal City's most picturesque neighbourhood, based on pastas, pizzas and lasagnas. It's not your grandmother's food, but it's close. Yum!
If you want to savour something more Roman than the Capitoline wolf in the district of Trastevere, but you're afraid that the fame of this bohemian and charming neighbourhood has gone to its head, take note of some gastronomic suggestions to make your culinary visit to this district a complete success.
But if you'll allow me to give you some basic advice, applicable to almost all my culinary suggestions: book a table! This golden rule should be taken into account by all travellers who want to fill their stomachs in Trastevere, the most authentic neighbourhood in the Italian capital. He who warns is not a traitor. And if you don't want to go wrong, book a gastronomic tour of Trastevere. You won't go wrong!
1. Feel like a real Italian at Trattoria Da Augusto
If you're one of those who enjoy the neighbourhood restaurants, the typical Paco bar or the food houses where they serve homemade dishes, you'll love this Roman trattoria. Located in the heart of Trastevere, Trattoria Da Augusto will take you back in time through your senses. Technology hasn't arrived here, but they don't need to because the dishes are quite good.
This is a small restaurant that you have to include in your gastronomic tour of Trastevere. It is usually crowded with Italians and serves homemade food at a very affordable price. As for the atmosphere, you'll often share a table with other diners, and you'll probably be amazed because you'll get your bill directly on the paper tablecloth - now that's good use of raw materials!
Before travelling to Rome, you should know that "trattorias" are family-run establishments where the menu of the day is served at a very affordable price, but beware: this restaurant does not accept credit cards.
Practical information about the Trattoria Da Augusto
- Where: Piazza de' Renzi, No. 15.
- Average price: about 8 to 10 euros per dish.
- Opening hours: 12.30pm to 3pm for lunch and 8pm to 11pm for dinner.
- Chef's tip: This restaurant's meat, one of the house specialities, has a great reputation.
- Recommended if... you want a cheap restaurant and don't have big pretensions.
2. The best pizza in Trastevere, at the Pizzeria Ivo
Did you know that pizza was brought to Rome after World War II by immigrants from the south of the country? So if you thought Romans were born with a pizza under their arm, you're very confused. However, in less than a century it has already become the star dish. Although it's difficult to choose the best pizza in Rome, in my case, I'd go for the one at Pizzeria Ivo. It's finger-licking good!
This place, which you have to include in your gastronomic tour of Trastevere, has been delighting the inhabitants of Rome and tourists for more than 60 years. In fact, it was in the early 1960s when its founder, Ivo Stefanelli, set up his own business in Trastevere, first in desserts and then in pizzas, and thanks to word of mouth it became the trendiest place in the area.
Today, his son Ivano has taken over the reins of the pizzeria and has started to improve the selection of raw materials: introducing Danish meats, top-brand cheeses and cured meats, organic labels and craft beers. The good thing? The average price of €20 has not changed. Good, nice and cheap.
Practical information about Pizzeria Ivo
- Where: Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, No. 158.
- Average price: €10 per pizza.
- Opening hours: Serves mainly dinner, from 6pm to 0.30am, except on Sundays when it is also open from 12pm to 3pm.
- Chef's tip: Try the fiori di zucca (courgette flowers stuffed with cheese and anchovy paste) and the tiramisu.
- Recommended if... you want to eat the best pizza and you're not in a hurry (sometimes the waiters are a bit slow).
3. The best pasta, at the best price at Da Enzo al 29
Despite the long queues (which is logical and normal, by the way) it's worth waiting to get into the restaurant Da Enzo al 29 and include it in the gastronomic tour of Trastevere. You will taste **one of the best pastas. **
I can only say that the carbonara dish was spectacular, so much so that I repeated the following days. It would be a sin to come to Rome and not dine here. Be careful because they don't take reservations!
But who is the owner? You'll have to look for him, as if he were Wally, on one of the walls of the dining room, where you'll find a photo with his portrait hanging in the trattoria. He passed away at the end of the 1980s, but Enzo's presence is still very much felt: he is in the memory of the customers who frequented the restaurant when he himself ran it.
Practical information about the trattoria Da Enzo al 29
- Where: Via dei Vascellari, No. 29.
- Average price: 13 € for a pasta dish.
- Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 12.15-3pm and 7-11pm.
- Chef's tip: try any of their pastas - they're all delicious!
- Recommended if... you want an authentic Roman meal in a place that retains the essence of Rome.
4. The best spaghetti at the Tonnarello restaurant
Are you one of those who take advice or one of those who go crazy in restaurants? In my case, I'm of the first group, I don't make up my mind until I read a thousand positive reviews. A good example was my visit to the Tonnarello restaurant, which had more than 35,000 reviews, most of which were outstanding. I thought: everyone can't be wrong, can they? So I took the plunge and my experience was brutal.
A fantastic terrace ideal for the summer in Rome, a charming place and the hallmark of the house: delicious tonnarelli (a kind of spaghetti), handmade like the Italian nonas.
Carnivores, meanwhile, can get their fill of lamb, oxtail and meatballs. Every ingredient here is carefully selected, as is the presentation.
Practical information about the Tonnarello restaurant
- Where: Via della Paglia, 1-2-3
- Average price: 9 € for a pasta dish and from 14 € for main courses.
- Opening hours: 10 am to 11 pm
- Chef's tip: The Tonnarello Cacio e Pepe, rated the best in Rome.
- Recommended if... you want to go to a charming restaurant and eat well for sure.
5. The best pasta with seafood at a good price at Osteria Der Belli
If you want to treat yourself to a good value culinary treat and feel like a Roman, I suggest you go to Osteria Der Belli, a Sardinian restaurant that specialises in simple seafood dishes such as octopus with jacket potatoes, sea bass carpaccio and grilled squid, all at a great price!
It's a very family-run restaurant. Everyone participates: the owner's sisters prepare their delicious fresh pasta with seafood every day. They also have tasty options for vegetarians, such as pasta with mushroom sauce or ravioli with spinach and ricotta cheese. In summer, the best thing to do is to try their menu on their lively outdoor terrace.
Practical information about Osteria Der Belli restaurant
- Where: Piazza di Sant'Apollonia, 11.
- Average price: between €10 and €16 per dish.
- Opening hours: 12.30pm to 3pm for lunch and 7pm to 11.30pm for dinner.
- Chef's tip: the mussels, the bruschetta al pomodoro and the pasta with spigola (sea bass).
- Recommended if... you want to savour seafood in all its forms at a good price.
6. Enjoy the most original pizza at Seu pizza Illuminati
If you're tired of the typical thin-crust Italian pizza (although it's impossible to get bored) and want to try something different, I recommend that you include in your gastronomic tour of Trastevere Seu pizza Illuminati, a minimalist style restaurant that moves away from the clichés and folklore of traditional pizzerias.
Here the pizzas are a mix between a calzone and a crepe with thick but very juicy edges that will delight your taste buds. One of the characteristics of the restaurant is that the menu varies according to the season and they also have wonderful sweet pizzas (worth a visit) and fried pizzas, which are sublime.
The prices are a little higher than other places, but not exaggerated and in keeping with the menu.
Practical information about Seu pizza Illuminati
- Where: Via Angelo Bargoni, 10-18.
- Average price: between €10 and €15 per pizza.
- Opening hours: 7pm to midnight every night (closed on Mondays).
- Chef's tip: The classic pizzas are infallible, such as the margherita, marinara and cosaco, among others.
- Recommended if... you want to try a minimalist pizza and its sweeter version.
7. The best aperitif at the Cantina dei Papi ham shop
To get the full experience in Rome, you must try the typical aperitivo of Rome, which has become a ritual. It is a kind of fun after-work that is usually held every day around 6pm. In this case, you pay a fixed price for the drink and it includes a very sophisticated aperitif.
Do you want to take a break from pasta and try this delight? I recommend a visit to the Cantina dei Papi ham shop, which stands out for its boards with an exquisite selection of local cured meats and cheeses. You can enjoy them accompanied by a good wine in a cosy and intimate atmosphere. If you want to drink water, they serve it free of charge in a jug, which is much appreciated.
My suggestion is to order a "tabla mixta", a rustic wood-fired charcuterie of ham, bacon, wild boar sausage, pork loin, lard and other Italian gourmet products. In addition, you can taste various cheese specialities, such as those flavoured with truffles and pistachio and walnut cheeses. There are also bruschettas with various sauces and pâtés such as olives, artichokes, truffles... They are to die for!
Practical information about Prosciutteria Cantina dei Papi
- Where: Via della Scala, No. 71.
- Average price: 5 € - 10 €.
- Opening hours: Every day from 11:30 am to 11:30 pm.
- Chef's tip: Try the boards and sandwiches, based on high quality artisan hams and cheeses.
- Recommended if... you want to have a snack-dinner in an informal and youthful atmosphere with friendly and helpful staff.
8. The best and healthiest gelato at Fiordiluna
Why did Audrey Hepburn fall in love with Rome: the scenery, the pizzas, the Italians? We don't know, but what is clear is that one of the reasons was its exquisite handmade ice creams, considered the best in the world. In particular, I prefer Fiordiluna 's because of the way they pamper the product: they only use fresh fruit!
For more than 25 years this establishment has been preparing ice creams with top quality ingredients bought from small producers: from hazelnuts to cocoa. And you can tell when you taste them. If you're on a diet, don't worry, because they've also developed ice creams with no added sugars, with an incredible flavour and creaminess. You're already late to try them!
If you have a sweet tooth and you're curious about where to find the most spectacular ice creams in the Eternal City, here's a guide to the best ice creams in Rome. You'll become an expert!
Practical information about Fiordiluna
- Where: Via della Lungaretta, 96.
- Chef's tip: The pistachio ice cream is delicious.
- Recommended if... you want to try the most authentic ice cream in Trastevere.
9. Taste the best street food at Trapizzino Trilussa
The trendy and street foodies in the Trastévere neighbourhood can enjoy some great street food at Trapizzino Trilussa, which has created a kind of tapas, somewhere between a sandwich and a pizza, which you can order to take away and eat in the square.
Specifically, it is a triangular-shaped slice of pizza, rolled up and open in the middle, filled with typical and delicious dishes from Roman cuisine. Today, the idea has become so popular that it has already opened several franchises in Italy and even in... New York!
Founder Stefano Calligari has a notebook in which he writes down his mother's and aunts' traditional recipes such as cuttlefish with peas, chicken with peppers... which he then introduces into his closed pizzas. The chef has given the matter a twist with this fun way of tasting them: no messy cutlery and the possibility of enjoying trapizzinos in the street, in any corner of Italy.
Practical information about Trapizzino Trilussa
- Where: Piazza Trilussa, 46.
- Average price: 4 € per trapizzino.
- Opening hours: Every day from 12 noon to 1 am. Fridays and Saturdays until 2am.
- Chef's suggestions: polpetta al sugo, zighini, pollo alla cacciatora...
- Recommended if... you want to try signature food at a good price and you don't want to waste too much time on it.
10. Try the best slushie at Sora Mirella overlooking the river.
In summer the best way to combat the high temperatures in Rome is to have a good grattachecca (a Roman invention similar to a slushie to cool down).
I suggest you go to Sora Mirella, a charming little open-air kiosk by the Tiber River and order one of these milkshakes - the views are spectacular!
It is also one of the few places where the grattachecca is prepared in the traditional way: that is, by scraping a block of ice with a tool, rather than with a modern machine. On top of your granita, you'll get delicious fresh fruit and you can even order it with alcohol. Watching the sunset with this drink sounds good, doesn't it?
Practical information about Sora Mirella
- Where: Lungotevere Degli Anguillara.
- Average price: very cheap.
- Opening hours: every day from 9am to 1.30am.
- Recommended if... you want to enjoy a delicious dessert in the open air with a good view of the river and the bridge.
How much money do I need to eat in Trastevere?
Probably one of our biggest worries when we go on a trip is calculating how much money we need. However, in this district of Rome, as you've seen, there are options for all budgets and some that will barely break the bank.
A good example of this is the tapas you can order to go at the Trapizzino Trilussa restaurant, each for around €4. If you want to eat cheaply but sit down, try the family-run trattorias which offer the dish of the day at a good price.
On the other hand, if you're looking for something more sophisticated and modern, this suburb is at the forefront of the industry, so you'll find plenty of options to please your palate without going broke trying.
How tipping works in Rome's restaurants
The million-dollar question: do you have to tip? You can breathe easy... In Italy, tipping is not compulsory, nor is it very common. You don't have to leave a percentage of the bill like in other European countries.
You can, however, leave some money voluntarily as a token of your appreciation if you liked the service and the food, which you will probably love! In restaurants you usually pay for the service, a fixed amount per person which can vary from 1 to 4 € depending on the restaurant. And now, bon appetit!